Ginkaku-Ji and Honen-In in the Rain

Today the rain has set in, and thinking this would deter visitors to the temples at Ginkaku-Ji and Honen-In, I cycled across the river to Northern Higashiyama early this morning.  Ginkaku-Ji was already quite busy despite the rain, but it was still possible to get an unimpeded view of the stroll garden and the carefully raked white stones of the kogetsudai. Honen-In was, however, completely deserted and although I got thoroughly soaked-through wandering in the gardens, it was a treat to enjoy it in complete solitude.

Presentation at Kyoto-Seika University

This afternoon I made a presentation about my early videotape and installation work in the Media Centre  at Kyoto-Seika University. Professor Shinsuke Ina provided an introduction and Isanori Oha made a live translation of my presentation for the students, as well as handling a question and answer section at the end. During the two-hour session I tried to provide an overview of my work, but made a careful selection of material to avoid difficulties with the language, as some of my works do rely to a certain extent on the spoken and/or written word.

Tofu-Kaiseki in Kyoto

Last night Shinsuke took me out to Ume-N0-Hana, a traditional Japanese restaurant, to sample the delights of Japanese haute cuisine. Tofu-Kaiseki, which was originally developed as an adjunct of the tea ceremony, is served in a private room and presented as a series of small courses, and is a visual as well as a culinary feast- with the food carefully arranged on a variety of dishes, plates and small pots, and chosen to compliment the season.

Tea at Kinkaku-Ji

Fighting the throngs of school children (who far outnumbered the tourists!) I visited the gold-clad temple at Kinkaku-Ji today. It is a stunning sight, and waiting patiently for an opportunity to photograph it, I found time to have a bowl of green tea and a sweet cake in a little grove under the trees nearby.

Fushimi-Inari-Taisha

Heading south beyond the Higashyama area of Kyoto this morning I explored the vast shrine at Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, which is spread out across a wooded mountain area to the east of the city. The most extraordinary feature of this huge shrine is the incredible number of  gates (called Torii) which snake through the landscape in numerous directions, forming tunnels through the surrounding trees.

After lunch I stayed on the east side of the Kamo-gama and cycled back north in the direction of central Kyoto into southern Higashiyama to visit Ninen-Zaka and Sannen-Zaka, two delightful streets in a neighbourhood of old wooden houses, restaurants and shops. Although I expected the area to be bustling with tourists, most of them were content to stay in the most popular shopping areas.

Aichi Triennale- Nagoya

This weekend I visited Nagoya to explore the Aichi Triennale 2010 with Akiko Hada, a Berlin-based artist, who spent some of her childhood in Nagoya. The theme of the Triennale for 2010 is “Arts and Cities”, and the venues for the event are spread across the city on four main sites, although the majority of the works were grouped in the two main city art galleries at the Aichi Arts Center and the Nagoya City Art Museum. There were many site-specific and specially commissioned pieces, and many of the works were installations and/or featured moving images. One of the main highlights of the Triennale was Ryoji Ikeda’s monumental outdoor light and sound installation at Nagoya Castle, but other installations that also impressed me included Tsang Kin Wah’s text-based video installation, They Are Already Old,  Oliver Herring’s witty triple screen video, Huang Shih Chieh’s delicate and playful electronic constructions (see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5LztEM-5Is), Yang Fudong’s ambitious ten screen 35mm film installation Dawn Mist, Separation Faith and Tim Etchell and Vlatka Horvat’s performance/installation Over the Table.

Ipso Facto at the National Museum of Modern Art

This evening I attended a concert performed by “Ipso Facto”, an ensemble of four musicians featuring Kishin Hunada on the Theremin. An enjoyable and unusual concert, and fascinating to be able to experience the extraordinary and haunting range of sounds the Theremin can produce!

Tsukimi- On the Night of the Autumn Moon

Tsukimi- a celebration of autumn moon, took place on the night of Sept 23rd. This is a fragment of video footage I recorded that evening at the Tsukimi which was held at the Kamigamo Shrine. Click on the highlighted link: Tsukimi, and then on the link that appears next (“? attachment id= 403”) to see the sequence. This may take a minute or two to upload, as although the sequence is short, it was shot in wide screen video.

Autumn Moon

Bright moon,

welcome to my hut –

such as it is

(Kobayashi Issa, 1763 -1828)

The Avant Garde of “Nihonga”

This afternoon I cycled across the river to the Higashiyama area of the Kyoto to the National Museum of Modern Art to see the current exhibition of paintings by the Japanese Avant -Garde group “Rekitei Bijutsu Kyokai”. Founded in the late 1930’s, the painters in this group sought to break with the traditional Japanese painterly subject matter of nature and harmonious landscapes to develop a more “modern” approach, influenced by Western painting- particularly drawing on ideas from Abstract Expressionism, Surrealism and Cubism.

After leaving the museum I cycled further east along the canal to the Nanzen-Ji temple complex.  I spent some time around the pond and in the “Crane and Turtle” garden of Konchi-In and then visited the Kotoku-an sub-temple before climbing up the hills to the secluded  Nanzen-Ji-Oku-No-In shrine.

Back to Kyoto on the Shinkansen

Each time I see Fuji

It appears changed

And I feel I view it

Ever for the first time.

How shall I describe Fuji

To those who have not seen it?

It is never seen twice alike

And I know no one way

Of describing the sight.

Date Masamune (1565-1636), from  Zen and Japanese Culture,  Daisetz T. Suzuki, Princeton University Press, NJ, 1959.

On the way back to Kyoto from Tokyo I finally saw Mount Fuji! I made a little Quick Time movie from the train window with my stills camera, which is posted below. Click on the highlighted text Mt Fuji @ 270 mph and then click on the text that appears subsequently, and it should load in a just a few moments, as I’ve kept it small.